Manufacture of moccasin type shoes



mp. 13, 1938. I ASHWQRTH ET AL 2,139,713

MANUFACTURE OF MOCCASIN TYPE SHOES Filed Oct. 22, .1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 %c. 13, W3. I F. ASHWORTH ET AL 2,339,713

MANUFACTURE-0F MOCCASIN TYPE SHOES Filed Oct. 22, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 fivvawrms ,We My MS- M 3z @m M 6% Patented Dec. 13, 1938 P AT T :OFFI .(I-E

2,139,713 MANUFACTURE or MOCCASIN TYPE SHOES Fred Ashworth, Wenham, and Leonard S. Curtin,

Malden, Mass, assi g'nors to United Shoe Ma- .chinery Corporation, ration of New Jersey Paterson, N. J., a corpo- Application c t ober 22, 1936, Serial No. 107,050

Claims.

The present invention relates to the manufacture of shoes the foreparts of which are characteristic of the moccasin and the rear parts of which may be of any preferred type of construc- 5 tion and are formed separately from the foreparts. The invention is herein illustrated in its application to a method of making shoes of the above type in the practice of which the moccasin type forepart is lasted before the rear part is secured thereto.

In the manufacture of shoes comprising a moccasin type forepart and a rear part which is separately formed and stitched to the forepart before the lasting operation, difficulty has been experienced in the forepart-lasting operation due to the fact that in shoes of the moccasin type the forepart is lasted by drawing the stock upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last and consequently the positions of the shoe parts at the sides of theforepart, and particularly of the seams whereby the forepart and rear part are united, are determined by the extent to which the stock is stretched during the lasting operation, and if the stock should be stretched more on one side of the forepart than on the other the opposite sides of the shoe could not be uniformly positioned on the last and the resulting product would lack that degree of perfection which is expected of high grade footwear. Here- 3() tofore the only way of overcoming this condition in the manufacture of shoes of the above type has been to draw the opposite sides of 'the forepart upwardly of the last until the seams at opposite sides of the quarter, or the blucher wings in the case of a shoe provided with a blucher type quarter such as that herein illustrated, are uniformly positioned heightwise of the last. It is, of course, apparent that this method of lasting moccasin type shoes necessarily sacrifices a uni- 4 form stretching of the stock at opposite sides of the forepart and also results in a slow and tedious lasting operation, and in many cases the resulting product is not satisfactory, particularly when the stock has to be strained considerably more on one side of the forepart than on the other in order to position the parts uniformly on the last.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a method of making moccasin type shoes which overcomes the difficulties above set forth 5g and results in the production of a more uniform and satisfactory product.

With the above object in view, the invention in one important aspect consists in lasting the forepart of a shoe of the type above described be- 55 fore the rear part has been fastened thereto, then indicating on the rear margin .of the lasted forepart the position which the forward margin of the rear part is to occupy thereon, and thereafter securing the rear part to the forepart in the position which is thus determined. Preferably the position whichflthe rear part is to occupy on the forepart is indicated by positioning a template or marking gage on the last after the forepart has been lasted, then marking the forepart along the gaging edge of said template, securing a toe piece to the moccasin type forepart, then removing the forepart from the last, and thereafter stitching the forward margin of the rear part to the forepart in the region indicated.

The various aspects of the invention will appear more fully from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. l is a perspective view of a last with a moccasin type forepart secured thereon in lasted position by a clamping plate;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation illustrating the last and forepart of Fig. l and a forepart-marking gage or template mounted on the last;

Fig. 3 is a perspective View illustrating the operation of stitching ablucher type quarter to the forepart member;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the template illustrated in Fig. 2; and

Fig. 5 is a bottom view of the template.

In practicing the method of the present invention a moccasin type forepart member such, for example, as the forepart l0 illustrated in Fig. l is positioned on a last l2 and held from bodily movement lengthwise of the last by driving a tack or tacks ll through the rearward extremity of the sole portion of the forepart and into the last. The margin of the forepart I0 is then drawn upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last, for example by means of lasting pincers, and is temporarily secured in position by driving tacks through the margin of the forepart member and into the top of the last. In the forepart-lasting operation which follows immedi ately after the upper has been temporarily secured to the last, any known method may be pursued. We prefer, however, to employ in the lasting operation the machine and methoddisclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,086,526, granted July 13, 1937 upon an application of Fred Ashworth. In accordance with the method of the above patent the upwardly extendingmargin of the forepart member is drawn upwardly and inwardly over the top of the forepart of the last by a lasting wire or cable (not shown) and is secured in lasted position by a clamping plate M (Fig. 1) which is secured in a predetermined position on the top of the forepart of the last l2 by a clamping screw 16 which engages an internally threaded plug (not shown) in the top of the forepart of the last. The marginal portion of the clamping plate l4 not only secures the overlasted margin of the forepart l 7 in lasted position but also provides a gage which determines the line along which the forepart member is trimmed for the reception of an insert or toe piece of the type commonly employed in the manufacture of moccasins.

After the forepart member has been lasted and secured in lasted position by the clamping plate i l the rear margin of the forepart member is marked in order to indicate the position for the forward margin of a blucher type quarter and, more particularly, to establish the line along which the forward edge of the quarter is to be located. A suitable template for use in marking the forepart member iii to define the position which the quarter is to occupy is illustrated in Figs. 4 and and is shown on the last in Fig. 2. The template is herein illustrated as a shell which embraces the rear part of the last and is sufficiently flexible to permit its side portions to spread as the shell is moved forwardly of the last to locate it in position to guide a marker, for example the pencil 28 illustrated in Fig. 2, during the forepart-marking operation. The shell has a peripheral portion or wall 22 which is shaped to conform to the side and end faces of the rear part of the last 12 and is also provided with inwardly extending flanges 24 which are formed integrally with the wall 22. The flanges 24 are shaped to engage the bottom face of the rear part of the last l2 and to conform to the shape thereof. The edges 25 of the flanges 24 extend rearwardly of the shell to its end wall. Thus it will be seen that the side portions of the shell are free to move toward and from each other within the limits of flexibility of said shell. The shell may be made of any flexible material. Celluloid, for example, has been found suitable for this purpose.

The side walls 22 and the flanges 2 3 of the shell terminate in edges 28 which have the same configuration as the forward edges of a blucher type quarter corresponding to the forepart member i i]. The edges 28 are so spaced from the rear end of the shell that when the shell is mounted on a last, as illustrated in Fig. 2, the edges 28 are positioned on the rear margin of the forepart member ill in the exact position which the forward edges of the quarter are to occupy. All that is required of the operator to insure a correct location of the forward edges 28 is to hold the side walls and bottom flanges of the shell firmly against the last and to seat the last firmly in the rear end of the shell. It will be seen that the edges 28 of the shell provide a gage or guide to aid the operator in marking the rear margin of the forepart member Iii to indicate the position which the forward edge of the quarter is to occupy thereon and it will also be seen that the use of the shell insures that the forepart member will be accurately marked and also that shoes of corresponding size will be marked exactly the same.

After marking the forepart member as above described the shell is removed from the last and the forepart member I Q is permitted to set to the last, if it has not already done so, and thereafter the upstanding margin of the forepart member is trimmed by means of a hand knife, the beveled margin 30 of the clamp it being employed as a age for the trimming operation. The forepart member If] is then removed from the last and a toe piece (not shown) is cemented to its beveled edge face. After the cement has set the toe piece and forepart member are stitched together, preferably by machine. A suitable machine for this purpose is disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,950,386, granted March 13, 1934 upon an application of Fred Ashworth. After the forepart member and toe piece have been secured together the forepart member, together with a blucher type quarter, for example the quarter 32 illustrated in Fig. 3, are positioned on the work support of a two-needle lockstitch sewing machine, parts of the needle post and presser foot of which are illustrated in Fig. 3, and the forward edges 34 of the quarter are arranged in alinement with the mark 36 on the forepart member. The forepart and quarter are then secured together by parallel rows of stitches 38, whereupon the shoe is mounted on the last and completed in any preferred manner.

While the invention is herein illustrated in its application to the manufacture of a shoe comprising a moccasin type forepart and a blucher type quarter, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited in its scope to the manufacture of such shoes but is applicable to the manufacture of shoes wherein a moccasin type forepart is combined with a rear part which does not have the characteristics of a blucher quarter. For example, the rear part might be constructed along the lines of the rear part of a moccasin.

Ilaving thus described our invention, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. An improvement in methods of making that type of shoe comprising a moccasin type forepart and a quarter which consists in lasting the forepart before the quarter is fastened thereto, then indicating on the rear margin of the lasted forepart member the position which the forward margin of the quarter is to occupy thereon, and thereafter securing together the quarter and the forepart in the relative position thus determined.

2. An improvement in methods of making that type of shoe comprising a moccasin type forepart and a quarter which consists in lasting the forepart before the quarter is fastened thereto, then indicating on the rear margin of the lasted forepart member the position which the forward margin of the quarter is to occupy thereon, removing the forepart member from the last, and thereafter securing together the quarter and the forepart in the relative position thus determined.

3. An improvement in methods of making that type of shoe comprising a moccasin type forepart and a quarter which consists in lasting the forepart before the quarter is fastened thereto, then indicating on the rear margin of the lasted forepart member the position which the forward margin of the quarter is to occupy thereon, trimming the upstanding margin of the forepart member, attaching a toe piece to the trimmed margin of the forepart member, removing said member from the last, and thereafter securing together the quarter and the forepart in the relative position thus determined.

4. An improvement in methods of making that type of shoe comprising a forepart and a quarter which consists in lasting the forepart before the quarter has been fastened thereto, then positioning on the last a template providing a marking gage for indicating on the rear margin of the lasted forepart the position to be occupied by the forward edge of the quarter, marking the forepart along the gaging edge of said template, removing the template, and thereafter securing the forward margin of the quarter to the region thus indicated on the forepart.

5. An improvement in methods of making that type of shoe comprising a. moccasin type forepart and a quarter which consists in lasting the forepart before the quarter has been fastened thereto,

then positioning on the last a template providing a marking gage for indicating on the rear margin of the lasted forepart the position to be occupied by the forward edge (if the quarter, marking the forepart along the gaging edge of said template, removing the template, removing the fo-repart member from the last, and thereafter stitching the forward margin of the quarter to the forepart member in the region indicated thereon. FRED ASHWORTH. LEONARD S. CURTIN. 

